To discover them, we shall start right here in via Stradella. Soon finding ourselves in corso Buenos Aires, the road ends in piazza Oberdan, where the underground Albergo Diurno is worth a visit. Designed by Portaluppi in 1926, its elegant thermal baths are now protected by FAI, the Italian National Trust. Going past the bastions of Porta Venezia, we come to another work by the Milanese architect: the Planetario Ulrico Hoepli. When Joan Jonas was in the city for her major exhibition at the Pirelli HangarBicocca in 2014, we gazed at the stars together seated in the original Thonet swivel chairs from the 1930s. Continuing along via Palestro, we might stop at PAC – in 2019, while Anna Maria Maiolino was setting up her retrospective, we used to walk every day along the green paths in the park towards the Pavilion. Entering via Serbelloni and then turning left onto via Cappuccini, we find the garden of Villa Invernizzi, with flamingos imported from Chile and Africa fifty years ago.

Palazzo Berri-Meregalli is a dark-stone treasure chest that houses Wildt’s Vittoria alata. Marcello Maloberti comes often to admire it: in 2018, his performance at GAM, in nearby via Palestro, was inspired by it as well as other masterpieces by Wildt. Arriving in via Mozart, after the more famous Villa Necchi-Campiglio di Portaluppi, our final stop is Villa Mozart, a magnificent synthesis of art and nature.